Monthly Archives: April 2013

Helping Hooves

Some friends came over today to collect horse manure for their vegetable garden’s compost bin.  Horse manure is something we have a large supply of.

I knew that everyone would want to help and, as I am indisposed, I thought the best way to do this was to divert the helpers with some silage.  I asked Leigh to throw it over the fence and into the field.

BN2A3701

I let Taktur out as I wanted to give him his daily grub.  Leigh was instantly enchanted and quickly made friends.

BN2A3717

Meanwhile, the men were busy with their bags and shovelling equipment around the field.

BN2A3708

And, yes, you guessed it. While everyone drifted off, more interested in the newly arrived silage, one little person thought he would investigate further on his own.

BN2A3723

Bozz-Bozz was fascinated.

BN2A3750

And then he saw someone who required his help.

BN2A3740

They were all doomed from the start, really.

BN2A3806

You know how police and army horses are de-sensitized using a variety of methods? Bozz-Bozz holds no fear of anything.  He could be a police horse or a mini drum horse for the Queen.

BN2A3758

He had a wonderful time, playing with the equipment.

BN2A3812

He had a wonderful time playing with the people, too.

BN2A3755

There was much helping.

BN2A3695

Darling little Bozz-Bozz.

BN2A3765

Gosh, it is good to be back home where life is normal again.

BN2A3827

I have missed my boys so much, even Hammy!

BN2A3833

Hospital now home

Well, I last wrote my blog en route to Aberdeen where I spent 7 days in a variety of very hot wards.  I arrived by ferry on the Friday morning, was met by the ambulance first thing and admitted to the hospital.

IMG_0499 IMG_0504

I spent Saturday exploring my surroundings and found a Tesco next door, within walking distance.

IMG_0491

I was very excited since I haven’t actually left my house properly since the middle of January.  So, trying not to go “wild in the aisles”,  I bought a few useful things and had fun wandering up and down gazing at the colours and just being in a new environment.

IMG_0494

The Sunday was spent waiting for the surgeon and anaesthetist to have their “little chat” so I didn’t go a-wandering any more and just accepted my fate.

IMG_0487

I was first on the theatre list, and came out sore but ok.  I have strict instructions – something about not lifting things and not tiring myself. I wrote it all down along with what they did to me.

“Removed the Wallis Ligament, found a tear in the disc, removed a loose disc piece about the size of a finger nail that had been pressing on L5 nerve route and performed a microdiscectomy”.

IMG_0480

So now we know.  Anyway, home yesterday evening on the normal flight from Aberdeen where I was met by Jo and BeAnne.  I burst into tears when I saw BeAnne.  We have not been separated since.

BN2A3531

Of course, everyone is pleased to see me.

BN2A3541

Some perhaps more than others.

BN2A3498

I missed everyone and am glad I am back.  Hospital is very hot and very not for me.

BN2A3685

Best of all, Spring is starting.  The celandine are the first to make the effort.  A better yellow than those NHS bins.

BN2A3600

I will listen to what my surgeon said.  No, honestly, I will. I promise.

BN2A3542

It’s not all black and white

You may have noticed some of my photos from Iceland are in black and white. There is a valid reason for this.

When I went in 2009, a friend of mine challenged me to shoot exclusively in B&W. This was a good thing – it took me out of my comfort zone, and forced me to look at photography in a new way. A lot of black and white images are created when the colour image is considered not ‘good enough’ and converting it is seen as a way to improve it. However when you think about black and white before firing the shutter, it does change your approach to photography.

Iceland is full of contrasts – white snow on black volcanic rock; smooth glassy water and rough landscapes, the old ‘fire and ice’ label is much trotted out but is also apt when you consider the geothermal heat just below the surface in places. Shooting in black and white serves to enhance these contrasts and introduces one of its own (black vs white).

Here is a selection of some of my favourite monochrome images from that trip. You can see more (and buy prints) at nickminers.com/svart_hvit, and if any of you are in the area, you can see some of them on display at the Harris + Hoole café in Rickmansworth High Street.

Click on the images to view full size.

Church at Prestbakki

Church at Prestbakki

Shelter in Steingrimsfjarðarheiði

Shelter in Steingrimsfjarðarheiði

Skull at Ísafjörður fjord

Skull at Ísafjörður fjord

Drying fish at Önundarfjörðut

Drying fish at Önundarfjörður

Wave breaking at Öndverðarnes

Wave breaking at Öndverðarnes

Puffin on the cliffs at Látrabjarg

Puffin on the cliffs at Látrabjarg

A lighthouse at sunset, Patreksfjörður

A lighthouse at sunset, Patreksfjörður

The stroke of midnight, Patreksfjörður

The stroke of midnight, Patreksfjörður

Ten tips for first time Iceland visitors

Originally published at nickminers.com/blog, here is a post about the top 10 things to consider if you’re planning to visit Iceland at all.

_MG_9495

Iceland is a bewitching country whose reach extends far beyond just those who have visited. So many people I speak to, a lot of them also photographers, have Iceland high up their list of places they want to visit, and I am often asked for advice on what people should look for when planning a trip. So in no particular order, here are ten things you should consider when planning your visit.

1. Hire a car

There are hundreds of tours operated by local companies from Reykjavík, from northern lights spotting to excursions as far as Greenland, but as good as the tours are, you are still stuck with the fixed itinerary and the crowd of people who come with you. To experience Iceland properly you need to experience the isolation, and having a car will allow you the freedom to leave as early or as late as you want, stop where you want, and return when you want.

Be very careful when driving in Iceland. Whilst the roads to the most popular places are asphalt roads, not all of them are surfaced. Some of them can be unpredictable and dangerous, and many are impassable by all but the most rugged 4×4 vehicles, so ensure you hire a car appropriate to the sort of roads you will be using, and always obey the local speed limits. Speeding fines are painfully high and the consequences of careless driving can be fatal.

2. Leave the capital

While it is possible to see a lot of what Iceland has to offer by finding a hotel or guest house in Reykjavík and driving out somewhere different each day, by booking accommodation in a farmhouse or rural guesthouse you can explore further, and also experience the local hospitality at first hand. Iceland Farm Holidays offer car hire and accommodation packages where you can pick from one of their tours or tailor-make your own.

3. Learn the language

It is true that most Icelanders speak perfect English, and enjoy the opportunity to do so. However learning a few basic Icelandic phrases, such as ‘Góðan daginn’ (Hello) and ‘Takk fyrir’ (thank you) is a great way to show courtesy to the local culture. Most guide books will contain a section with a few choice phrases that will come in handy, but if you want to delve deeper into their language and its idiosyncracies, there is a free online course at icelandiconline.is.

Parting gift

4. Explore the capital

Iceland is famous for its wild scenery and vast open spaces, but also for its nightlife. Reykjavík is a vibrant, compact city with plenty of variety. During the day time you can visit one of the many museums, from the National Gallery (Listasafn Íslands) and the Art Museum (Listasafn Reykjavíkur) to the more special interest Phallological Museum. The view from the top of the tower at Hallgrímur’s church (Hallgrímsirkja) is very impressive, as is that from Perlan (the Pearl), a glass-domed public space built on top of six hot water tanks to the south of the city centre. The newly finished concert hall Harpa is a wonder of modern architecture and well worth a visit, at night as well as during the day (you’ll see why!). Even if you’re not attending a concert, you can relax in the cafe or browse the record shop, and take advantage of free Wi-Fi, something that is common throughout Reykjavík.

At weekends, the flea market Kolaportið opens where you can browse through hundreds of stalls selling food, arts and crafts, music, and knitwear.

Late at night the bars become very busy, and though the beer is not cheap, you don’t need to get hammered to have a great time as the atmosphere is invariably friendly. There are no night clubs as such but plenty of bars have live music – check the listings at the Reykjavík Grapevine to see what’s on. Be prepared to stay up as late as 4am if necessary!

5. Take to the sky

Iceland from above is like no other place I know. I was fortunate enough to be able to hire a local pilot on my last visit and got some spectacular views on a beautiful clear winter day. There are various companies who offer aerial photography or sightseeing tours – all are definitely worth checking out. In Reykjavík you have Eagle AirEyjaflug and Atlantsflug, while further north at Mývatn there is Mýflug.

_MG_9123

6. Eat on a budget

Like pretty much everything else, the food in Iceland is expensive. Eating out is a luxury most tourists can’t really afford to do every day, though there are cheap places you can go. Top of your list should be Bæjarins Bestu Pylsur (‘the town’s best hot dogs’) which is a small hot dog stand which serves the best hot dogs in Iceland, and possibly the world. Ask for ‘eina með öllu’/’one with everything’ (or two if you’re particularly hungry) and enjoy food fit for a president – Bill Clinton is a famous past customer.

Hamborgarabullan on Geirsgata is a hamburger restaurant which offers well priced and very tasty hamburgers and chips. You won’t find McDonalds or Burger King anywhere in Iceland, but after trying Hamborgarabullan’s food you won’t want to.

Hlöllabátar is a subway sandwich shop in Ingolfstorg which will fill you up without emptying your wallet. But for food on the go, your best bet is to visit one of the supermarkets (Bónus or Krónan) and buy some bread, cheese, coleslaw or other sandwich fillings and make your own picnic. Be sure to buy some pots of Skyr too – a dairy product like a cross between yoghurt and cream cheese that comes in several flavours.

If you’re on the road, most service stations in the larger towns you visit will have similar food for sale so you can top up on provisions.

7. Make the most of the time of year

Iceland can be enjoyed at any time of year as each season has its own charms. In summer the weather is milder than you’d expect at these latitudes, as the atlantic gulf stream carries warm air from the Caribbean meaning you can expect temperatures in double figures (celsius). The days are very long, often with only a few hours’ twilight between sunset and sunrise, though even this is shorter in the north of the country. If you want to see the aurora, this would not be the time to visit. However many of the less-accessible parts of Iceland, such as Landmannalaugar, are only open in the summer.

In winter the temperature drops below zero but the wind can make it feel much colder, so you will need to wrap up warm. The sun doesn’t make much of an appearance, but when it does, it has a beautiful golden colour as it stays very close to the horizon, casting long shadows. The air on a good day can be very crisp and refreshing, and of course the long nights mean you have your best chance of seeing the aurora. Roads outside urban areas can become treacherous though, even the asphalt main roads, so check before travelling at the website of the Icelandic Road Administration.

The day length still varies considerably throughout spring and autumn, but due to Iceland’s western location you get more light in the evenings than in the mornings, as they use GMT all year round. Weather-wise you can and should expect anything, from winds that can lift a person off their feet to clear blue skies, at any time of year.

_NMP0363

8. Go native

Iceland is famous for its more unusual foodstuffs. Apart from whale and puffin which are served in many local restaurants, you can buy dried fish (harðfiskur) and fermented shark (hákarl) from most supermarkets, as well as the more accessible smoked lamb (hangikjöt) which is served in flatbread (flatkaka). If you ever find yourself at a loose end at the BSÍ bus terminal, the cafe there also serves Svið – boiled sheep’s head.

Of the liquid variety, Brennivín (literally, ‘burning wine’) is the local Schnapps which is often used to wash down hákarl. There are plenty of local microbreweries that offer alternatives to the ubiquitous Egill’s Gull and Víking beers – I personally recommend Einstök and Jökull beer (EDIT: turns out Jökull beer is no longer brewed).

9. Get on the Airwaves

Every year, at the end of October, Reykjavík plays host to the Iceland Airwaves music festival. What started as a one-off show in an aircraft hanger in 1999 has evolved into one of Europe’s biggest and most popular music festivals, hosting hundreds and hundreds of events in venues across the city, from the vast Silfurberg hall in Harpa, to a tiny mobile hut in Ingolfstorg with room for an audience of three. Iceland’s own thriving music scene is always well represented, but the event also features new bands from across the world, as well as the occasional unexpected special guest.

For just under a week the town fills with music fans from across the globe, and the atmosphere throughout is like one huge non-stop party. Even if you don’t manage to get a ticket for the festival itself, the off-venue concerts held in cafes, bookshops and hostels are all free of charge and feature many, if not most, of the headline acts. But make sure you arrive early – these places fill up very quickly.

10. Let go

Everyone who goes to Iceland will have their own expectations and lists of places to see. The best known sights—Gullfoss, Geysir, the Blue Lagoon, Jökulsárlón—are all well worth a visit, and should not be missed. However I often find that the more memorable moments come unexpectedly. Ask a local for ideas on what to do that most people wouldn’t consider, take a detour down a side road (ensuring first that it is suitable for whatever vehicle you are in)–try something unexpected and you may just find something special that you can keep as your own little secret part of Iceland.

Góða ferð!

Nick

Sorry…

…I’ve not been able to keep up Frances’ impressive rate of posting in my spot as guest editor. While I think of what to write for tomorrow, here’s a picture of Quimper, in France, where I recently went on holiday.

_MG_2333

Thanks for your patience!

Nick