Tag Archives: Iceland

It’s not all black and white

You may have noticed some of my photos from Iceland are in black and white. There is a valid reason for this.

When I went in 2009, a friend of mine challenged me to shoot exclusively in B&W. This was a good thing – it took me out of my comfort zone, and forced me to look at photography in a new way. A lot of black and white images are created when the colour image is considered not ‘good enough’ and converting it is seen as a way to improve it. However when you think about black and white before firing the shutter, it does change your approach to photography.

Iceland is full of contrasts – white snow on black volcanic rock; smooth glassy water and rough landscapes, the old ‘fire and ice’ label is much trotted out but is also apt when you consider the geothermal heat just below the surface in places. Shooting in black and white serves to enhance these contrasts and introduces one of its own (black vs white).

Here is a selection of some of my favourite monochrome images from that trip. You can see more (and buy prints) at nickminers.com/svart_hvit, and if any of you are in the area, you can see some of them on display at the Harris + Hoole café in Rickmansworth High Street.

Click on the images to view full size.

Church at Prestbakki

Church at Prestbakki

Shelter in Steingrimsfjarðarheiði

Shelter in Steingrimsfjarðarheiði

Skull at Ísafjörður fjord

Skull at Ísafjörður fjord

Drying fish at Önundarfjörðut

Drying fish at Önundarfjörður

Wave breaking at Öndverðarnes

Wave breaking at Öndverðarnes

Puffin on the cliffs at Látrabjarg

Puffin on the cliffs at Látrabjarg

A lighthouse at sunset, Patreksfjörður

A lighthouse at sunset, Patreksfjörður

The stroke of midnight, Patreksfjörður

The stroke of midnight, Patreksfjörður

Ten tips for first time Iceland visitors

Originally published at nickminers.com/blog, here is a post about the top 10 things to consider if you’re planning to visit Iceland at all.


Iceland is a bewitching country whose reach extends far beyond just those who have visited. So many people I speak to, a lot of them also photographers, have Iceland high up their list of places they want to visit, and I am often asked for advice on what people should look for when planning a trip. So in no particular order, here are ten things you should consider when planning your visit.

1. Hire a car

There are hundreds of tours operated by local companies from Reykjavík, from northern lights spotting to excursions as far as Greenland, but as good as the tours are, you are still stuck with the fixed itinerary and the crowd of people who come with you. To experience Iceland properly you need to experience the isolation, and having a car will allow you the freedom to leave as early or as late as you want, stop where you want, and return when you want.

Be very careful when driving in Iceland. Whilst the roads to the most popular places are asphalt roads, not all of them are surfaced. Some of them can be unpredictable and dangerous, and many are impassable by all but the most rugged 4×4 vehicles, so ensure you hire a car appropriate to the sort of roads you will be using, and always obey the local speed limits. Speeding fines are painfully high and the consequences of careless driving can be fatal.

2. Leave the capital

While it is possible to see a lot of what Iceland has to offer by finding a hotel or guest house in Reykjavík and driving out somewhere different each day, by booking accommodation in a farmhouse or rural guesthouse you can explore further, and also experience the local hospitality at first hand. Iceland Farm Holidays offer car hire and accommodation packages where you can pick from one of their tours or tailor-make your own.

3. Learn the language

It is true that most Icelanders speak perfect English, and enjoy the opportunity to do so. However learning a few basic Icelandic phrases, such as ‘Góðan daginn’ (Hello) and ‘Takk fyrir’ (thank you) is a great way to show courtesy to the local culture. Most guide books will contain a section with a few choice phrases that will come in handy, but if you want to delve deeper into their language and its idiosyncracies, there is a free online course at icelandiconline.is.

Parting gift

4. Explore the capital

Iceland is famous for its wild scenery and vast open spaces, but also for its nightlife. Reykjavík is a vibrant, compact city with plenty of variety. During the day time you can visit one of the many museums, from the National Gallery (Listasafn Íslands) and the Art Museum (Listasafn Reykjavíkur) to the more special interest Phallological Museum. The view from the top of the tower at Hallgrímur’s church (Hallgrímsirkja) is very impressive, as is that from Perlan (the Pearl), a glass-domed public space built on top of six hot water tanks to the south of the city centre. The newly finished concert hall Harpa is a wonder of modern architecture and well worth a visit, at night as well as during the day (you’ll see why!). Even if you’re not attending a concert, you can relax in the cafe or browse the record shop, and take advantage of free Wi-Fi, something that is common throughout Reykjavík.

At weekends, the flea market Kolaportið opens where you can browse through hundreds of stalls selling food, arts and crafts, music, and knitwear.

Late at night the bars become very busy, and though the beer is not cheap, you don’t need to get hammered to have a great time as the atmosphere is invariably friendly. There are no night clubs as such but plenty of bars have live music – check the listings at the Reykjavík Grapevine to see what’s on. Be prepared to stay up as late as 4am if necessary!

5. Take to the sky

Iceland from above is like no other place I know. I was fortunate enough to be able to hire a local pilot on my last visit and got some spectacular views on a beautiful clear winter day. There are various companies who offer aerial photography or sightseeing tours – all are definitely worth checking out. In Reykjavík you have Eagle AirEyjaflug and Atlantsflug, while further north at Mývatn there is Mýflug.


6. Eat on a budget

Like pretty much everything else, the food in Iceland is expensive. Eating out is a luxury most tourists can’t really afford to do every day, though there are cheap places you can go. Top of your list should be Bæjarins Bestu Pylsur (‘the town’s best hot dogs’) which is a small hot dog stand which serves the best hot dogs in Iceland, and possibly the world. Ask for ‘eina með öllu’/’one with everything’ (or two if you’re particularly hungry) and enjoy food fit for a president – Bill Clinton is a famous past customer.

Hamborgarabullan on Geirsgata is a hamburger restaurant which offers well priced and very tasty hamburgers and chips. You won’t find McDonalds or Burger King anywhere in Iceland, but after trying Hamborgarabullan’s food you won’t want to.

Hlöllabátar is a subway sandwich shop in Ingolfstorg which will fill you up without emptying your wallet. But for food on the go, your best bet is to visit one of the supermarkets (Bónus or Krónan) and buy some bread, cheese, coleslaw or other sandwich fillings and make your own picnic. Be sure to buy some pots of Skyr too – a dairy product like a cross between yoghurt and cream cheese that comes in several flavours.

If you’re on the road, most service stations in the larger towns you visit will have similar food for sale so you can top up on provisions.

7. Make the most of the time of year

Iceland can be enjoyed at any time of year as each season has its own charms. In summer the weather is milder than you’d expect at these latitudes, as the atlantic gulf stream carries warm air from the Caribbean meaning you can expect temperatures in double figures (celsius). The days are very long, often with only a few hours’ twilight between sunset and sunrise, though even this is shorter in the north of the country. If you want to see the aurora, this would not be the time to visit. However many of the less-accessible parts of Iceland, such as Landmannalaugar, are only open in the summer.

In winter the temperature drops below zero but the wind can make it feel much colder, so you will need to wrap up warm. The sun doesn’t make much of an appearance, but when it does, it has a beautiful golden colour as it stays very close to the horizon, casting long shadows. The air on a good day can be very crisp and refreshing, and of course the long nights mean you have your best chance of seeing the aurora. Roads outside urban areas can become treacherous though, even the asphalt main roads, so check before travelling at the website of the Icelandic Road Administration.

The day length still varies considerably throughout spring and autumn, but due to Iceland’s western location you get more light in the evenings than in the mornings, as they use GMT all year round. Weather-wise you can and should expect anything, from winds that can lift a person off their feet to clear blue skies, at any time of year.


8. Go native

Iceland is famous for its more unusual foodstuffs. Apart from whale and puffin which are served in many local restaurants, you can buy dried fish (harðfiskur) and fermented shark (hákarl) from most supermarkets, as well as the more accessible smoked lamb (hangikjöt) which is served in flatbread (flatkaka). If you ever find yourself at a loose end at the BSÍ bus terminal, the cafe there also serves Svið – boiled sheep’s head.

Of the liquid variety, Brennivín (literally, ‘burning wine’) is the local Schnapps which is often used to wash down hákarl. There are plenty of local microbreweries that offer alternatives to the ubiquitous Egill’s Gull and Víking beers – I personally recommend Einstök and Jökull beer (EDIT: turns out Jökull beer is no longer brewed).

9. Get on the Airwaves

Every year, at the end of October, Reykjavík plays host to the Iceland Airwaves music festival. What started as a one-off show in an aircraft hanger in 1999 has evolved into one of Europe’s biggest and most popular music festivals, hosting hundreds and hundreds of events in venues across the city, from the vast Silfurberg hall in Harpa, to a tiny mobile hut in Ingolfstorg with room for an audience of three. Iceland’s own thriving music scene is always well represented, but the event also features new bands from across the world, as well as the occasional unexpected special guest.

For just under a week the town fills with music fans from across the globe, and the atmosphere throughout is like one huge non-stop party. Even if you don’t manage to get a ticket for the festival itself, the off-venue concerts held in cafes, bookshops and hostels are all free of charge and feature many, if not most, of the headline acts. But make sure you arrive early – these places fill up very quickly.

10. Let go

Everyone who goes to Iceland will have their own expectations and lists of places to see. The best known sights—Gullfoss, Geysir, the Blue Lagoon, Jökulsárlón—are all well worth a visit, and should not be missed. However I often find that the more memorable moments come unexpectedly. Ask a local for ideas on what to do that most people wouldn’t consider, take a detour down a side road (ensuring first that it is suitable for whatever vehicle you are in)–try something unexpected and you may just find something special that you can keep as your own little secret part of Iceland.

Góða ferð!


The Unpronounceables

One of my favourite aspects of Iceland (yes, that country again) is the endless supply of waterfalls. It was while driving along the south coast road in 1999 that I first realised just how amazing this place is; Seljalandsfoss can be seen from miles away but you still don’t realise straight away just how huge it is. (Don’t forget to click on the photos to see them full size!)

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Just around the corner (well, it feels like that when you’re driving through Iceland; it’s more like 20 miles further on) is Skógafoss, a waterfall that faces south meaning that there’s almost always a rainbow for as long as the sun is out. This is another one popular with photographers.

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Further north, around Thingvellir (where that huge crack in the land is in my aerial shots from Thursday) the river Öxará (Axe river) cascades over the southern edge of the North American tectonic place rather dramatically at Öxarárfoss.

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Further north still, water that flows underground through porous lava emerges at the edge of the river Hvitá in a wall of springs unlike any other waterfall I’ve seen. These are the Lava Falls, known locally as Hraunfossar.


A short walk upstream from Hraunfossar is a waterfall with a tragic tale behind it – the story goes that a brother and sister were playing near the waterfall one Sunday when everyone else at the village was at church. The children tried to cross the waterfall at a natural arch that spanned the river, but lost their footing and fell to their deaths. On discovering what had happened, their mother cursed the waterfall so that anyone else who attempted to cross the river in the same way would perish. However the stone arch has since collapsed. The waterfall was named in honour of the children, and is known as Barnafoss (the children’s waterfall).

Barnafoss (the Children's Waterfall) in western Iceland

On the western edge of the vast Vatnajökull glacier in the south east of Iceland, the Skaftafell national park is a narrow strip of fertile green land fed by a river coming off the glacier. This river cascades down a stunning columnar basalt formation not unlike the rocks at the Giant’s Causeway in Northern Ireland. It’s a short hike to reach the waterfall from the car park, but well worth it. This is the Black Waterfall, Svartifoss.


Heading to the other extreme, back in the Western Fjords, the loudest waterfall in Iceland is part of a set of waterfalls flowing into Arnafjörður fjord known as Fjallfoss (mountain waterfall), or more commonly Dynjandi (Thundering). It is also, like most of them, enormous (see if you can spot the people hiding in this picture to get an idea of the scale).


Once again apologies for the lack of equine photos, but hopefully these pictures give you some idea of the sort of scenes Icelandic horses have to put up with on a daily basis, the poor things…


Horses on demand

As I mentioned yesterday, I’m rather fond of Iceland, and, yes, the horses, the lack of which in my post some of you noted. So here is a selection of Icelandic horses from my various jaunts up north…

First up, from a tour of the Icelandic ring road in 2007, these chaps/ladies were ignoring the snow and the cold and just being generally waaay too cool.

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I returned a few years later with my family, and headed to the Western Fjords in the extreme north west of Iceland. At Hrutafjörður, where the road to the Western Fjords leaves the main ring road, these guys needed a bit of persuading that we were friendly…

_MG_1624…but I eventually got their confidence and one even posed like a supermodel.

The leader of the herd, with whom I’d had a chat to arrange the shoot beforehand, kept a close eye on me throughout…


On a visit in February last year, something in the snow brought the poser out in the locals…


Who weren’t even bothered by a bit of rain


Of course the horses share Iceland with their feathered friends, the puffins, who are just as good at posing.


I mean, yeah, you can catch sand-eels in your beak, but can you tölt?



Hello Shetland fans! Now that Frances has gone for her operation she has handed the reins over to me to do my best to keep you interested while she is away. Living, as I do, 600 miles from Shetland, I am unable to regale you with anecdotes of animal related antics in the same way your regular hostess has done in the past, but as a photographer with a fondness for Iceland, there may be something of interest I can share with you.

My most recent visit to Iceland was for the Iceland Airwaves festival in October/November 2012, where I was photographing for The 405, a young but increasingly popular music website with whom I cut my teeth as a music photographer during 2011 before deciding to concentrate on more commercial photography.

We arrived to scenes of calm seas and snowy mountains.


Before paying a visit to the smallest venue in town


In the evening, a selection of local bands were playing at a much larger venue where, in typical crazy Icelandic style, one of the bands (called Prinspóló) handed out paper hats to the crowd:


Before being followed by Sin Fang and their unusual home-made effects boxes:


Rounding off the night were FM Belfast (who are not a radio station and are not from Northern Ireland) who finished their set, as they always do, in their underwear:


Working the crowd into a frenzy as they went


However, the reason I’m telling you all this is that on the Sunday after the festival, after the Epic Wind of Death blew through town, lifting people off their feet and generally causing chaos throughout the city of Reykjavík, the weather miraculously cleared and I was able to hire a small Cessna and pilot to fly over some of Iceland’s stunning landscapes.

I arrived at the airport beneath clear blue skies:


…before being shown to our carriage:


..which needed a quick top-up:


It wasn’t long before we were airborne, over lava fields:


… cracks in the earth (this particular one is the plate boundary between Europe and North America):

Holidaying on the edge

… frozen islands:


… and ribbons of meltwater from a nearby glacier:


An extinct volcano was a breathtaking sight:


… while, further south, a glacial river made abstract shapes across the barren landscape:


… before flowing into the North Atlantic ocean.


On the approach back to Reykjavík I got one last look at the mountains to the south west.


If I weren’t planning to do it again, for longer and further afield, I would have described it as a once-in-a-lifetime experience, however it only served to further fuel my hunger for more and now I just need to wait for the time, and the funds, to return.

Thanks for reading – I will try to keep up Frances’s rate of posting as best I can.


(Mandatory gratuitous plug: if you want to buy prints of any of the aerial photographs, you can from this page. If you want to save 15% on your first order, just use the discount code MYSHETLAND at the checkout.)